Andalusia was on Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mind when creating Dior’s cruise 2023 collection that was unveiled from the Spanish southern coast. As always, Grazia’s looks included carefully crafted looks that highlight discovery and reflection. The rich shades of maroons and golds, paired with many of the black looks made for a color inducive collection.
Dance and music were also very much a part of the show. The Plaza de España was the setting where dancers moved synchronically in red dresses under the sound of an orchestra, under composer and conductor Alberto Iglesias, playing traditional Spanish music. The plaza was constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition that would display the diversity and richness of cultures that have impacted and molded Spain. It also highlighted how fashion inspired the Spain of then. It was during this time that Goya’s artwork commenced, which also inspired the creative director.
Chiuri’s inspiration and icon is dancer Carmen Amaya, known as La Capitana. She danced as she pleased with her Flamenco essence. “She was the first dancer in her field to dress in men’s clothing, combining power and fragility through her art,” shares the House in notes. La Capitana holds the soul of Spain, especially its southern influences that embodies plural femininity.
But Dior as a house is not new to Andalusia and its city of Seville. For his 1956 haute couture collection the Bal à Séville dress was created by Christian Dior himself. Women like Elizabeth Parke firestone wore the dress in the same year of its creation.
There are quite a few equestrian looks inspired by the Duchess of Alba, an iconic character who enjoyed horse riding with Jackie Kennedy, also a horse woman in her own right. The look is a short jacket, high-waisted pants and a wide-brimmed hat work in a certain way at an angle.
When Chiuri does her cruise collections, she takes heed to the country, to the village the show will be in, to its music and dance, and to the craftsmanship of the region. The Manila shawl has a story of its own of the communities that created it. “The tale of these nomadic objects is narrated using multiple voices: note the men’s pinstripe suits, the pants worn with suspenders, the silk-lined waistcoats; the white shirts; the Andalusian horsemen’s pants; the short jackets adorned with brandebourg closures; the trimmed boleros that make the silhouette even more slender; the sleeves that can flare out like a cape. Shimmering taffeta – in red, yellow, ochre, black – is sculpted into exuberant skirts that symbolize both Dior and Spain,” states Dior.
The show was one done in magical Andalusian style with a French touch. It accomplished what Chiuri was trying to complete, various forms and visions of femininity.