London-based, Parisian-born jewelry designer Anissa Kermiche has long been known for her artistic and thoughtful approach to jewelry. So, cue her latest, ‘Deflowered Collection,’ which celebrates the female form.
A longstanding influence ever since Anissa founded her eponymous brand in 2016, expect gold pieces that have been given playful names, from ‘Budding Romance’ to ‘Late Bloomer,’ all conveying the relationship between flora and femininity. Anissa tells us more about her line from mechanics to the artistic nature.
Sensuality: Our ‘Deflowered Collection’ explores the erotic links between womanhood, sexuality and flowers. It was designed to empower women to express their desire and sensuality. Offering jewelry that glistens with sex appeal through whirling petals, flirty stamens and tenacious but delicate genital forms. We were inspired by the sensual folds of petals that can symbolize vulvas, also looking at the calla lily, which has strong symmetry with women’s genitalia.
Exploration of mechanics: The collection comprises both fashion and fine jewelry. The fashion offering is where we had the opportunity to produce larger floral shapes and create new mechanisms for opening and attaching the jewelry. We wanted to spur confusion with the viewer about how the pieces sit, almost like they’re floating in the ear. We then developed this idea further in the fine collection, where we created a floating acrylic ring band, so the ‘Daisy-me-rollin’ and ‘Lady V’ rings look as though they’re sitting unattached on the top of the finger.
Artistic references: We studied the work of Georgia O’Keeffe, who showed a delicate eroticism in her abstract depictions of blossoms. Similarly, the photographers Robert Mapplethorpe and Edward Weston both portrayed strong sexual undertones in their photographic studies of flowers, shooting their curving shapes with the same consideration others brought to nudes. These were a few strong influences for the team when creating the deflowered collection, even when it came to shooting our campaign.
Our campaign: The imagery we produced for this collection was incredibly important to us. It was imagined right at the very beginning when the pieces were being designed. We wanted to marry still-life photography alongside model shots, to create a sensual mood that showed an intimate interaction between the model and the jewelry, embracing her body and mirroring its curves with the pieces. The still-life images showed earrings sitting in miniature vases, mimicking a classic arrangement. They were also shot hanging in the air alongside real flowers and then pierced into printed paper with abstract body areas to capture a subtle eroticism.
Humor: The pieces in this collection were all given playful names to convey the illustrious relationship between Flora and Femininity. Names such as ‘Budding Romance,’ ‘Late Bloomer,’ ‘Lady Garden,’ and ‘Ms. Connie Lingus’. The collection was designed to empower women’s sexuality while maintaining a lightness in the jewelry. We kept the designs abstract and refined, allowing the names to reiterate the story and humor. Our ‘Maternity Leaf’ and “Pearl-lination Necklace’ – a piece that shows a woman’s ovaries in the form of floral shapes and pearls, were two more examples of how we used wordplay to highlight the background of the design and acknowledge the femaleness of the jewelry.
See the collection on anissakermiche.com.