It was as though Tory Burch could command the wind. Just as her collection came down the runway, a show that incorporated a bevy of flowy fabrics and flyway coats, the breeze from the Hudson River on Pier 76 gave the Tory Burch spring 2023 collection an added dimension.
It was a collection that was a study in the art of layering and wrapping the body. Sheer tops over over lace bras under stretch bandeaus and calf-length chiffon skirts. Minimalist satin coats over multiple separates. Sheer button down knits on top of sheer mock turtlenecks paired with either trousers or skirts. Tailored jackets worn with form fitting skirts and knitwear. There were several iterations of light satin outerwear. The result is a certain fluidity in movement, which coupled with the nighttime breeze made for a dramatic effect.
The Tory Burch signature of tunics were shown with an exaggerated hip, peplum-esque. One in a pistachio green was given a smattering of beadwork and worn over a translucent metallic column skirt. But it was in their barest, when they were free of embellishment, and you are left only with their sculptural silhouette that the tunics truly stood out. Like the solid black version paired with a black skirt wrapped around the waist like a sarong. It was utilitarian chic. The color palette was subdued mostly in earth tones like dune, caramel, chocolate and ivory punctuated in parts by a shot of lime or orange or the reflective surface of mirrored paillettes.
“This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York. I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now,” said Tory Burch in her show notes.
The result is a kind of layering as an exercise in lightness. And we are here for it.