Daniel Roseberry Turns To The Extraordinary For Schiaparelli’s SS23 Collection

Quintessentially Schiaparelli is the Spring-Summer 2023 women’s collection that was unveiled today from the City of Lights, at the Hotel D’Évreux next to the Schiaparelli atelier. A trend coming off the SS23 runways is practicality, pieces that can be worn from morning and easily transition into the evening. And Daniel Roseberry has seemed to master surrealism and this practicality in this new collection, to master the everyday look making it extraordinary.

“Ready-to-wear may be beholden to certain practical considerations, but that doesn’t mean that the woman who wears it isn’t any less entitled to fantasy than those who buy couture,” states Roseberry in notes. The easygoing and soft-spoken Creative Director greeted guests as they arrived to check out the new collection.

What are these practical considerations he speaks of? Adamant about not using the word “everyday,” a word synonymous with ready-to-wear, Roseberry states, “I believe that everyone who creates ready-to-wear must and should ask themselves why they’re making clothes at all; why the world needs another ready-to-wear collection.”

Practical pantsuits with gold detailing fill the collection. Some are single-breasted and some double breasted, and some are a skinny pant while one suit is more loose fitting. But all are transition-able from day to evening. There’s even a single breasted white pantsuit with a solo gold button, and black vest inspired top.

Denim looks are present. High waisted jeans are paired with a matching denim jacket, with gold sequin detailing on the back. A denim skirt is paired with a corset- inspired white top.

The tailoring, as usual for the Maison is impeccable- “from our riffs on human anatomy, our bijoux, special elements such as trompe l’oeil hair, as well as iconic codes such as the gold silk embroidered measuring tape-that you’d find in our couture,” he notes.

And let’s not forget the red pieces in the collection. A red skirt suit giving the appearance of black ants scattered throughout adds a fiery touch. And, the most glamorous glittery gold coat dress, almost looking like Schiaparelli Couture, is the dreamiest look in the collection.

“I was also inspired this season by a recent trip to Il Pellicano, the beloved Italian resort in Porto Ercole. There I watched as women from around the world got dressed-for a day at the beach and later, for drinks and dinner. I realized I was creating a uniform for them in my head: stark strokes of color in sharp but roomy silhouettes, embellished with unapologetically glamorous bijoux,” he says.

Roseberry didn’t forget evening wear. Short cocktail-esque pieces and long flowing gowns take the feminine heart away. Like the black and white off the shoulder gown that’s white in the front and black in the back with a small train that follows. Or, a blue halter fitted calf-length dress with gold detail around the neck is stunning.

Indeed, Roseberry has invited us to think about what everyday means, and to somehow see the extraordinary—the cuts, the detail and the glamour in the things that aren’t couture.

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