How Gherardo Felloni Rekindled Monsieur Vivier’s Know-How Of Couture In The AW23 Roger Vivier Collection
Rarely does French brand Roger Vivier do anything in an ordinary way, but extraordinary is a language the brand speaks. Most all collections are colorful, sensual, and desirable. The autumn-winter 2023 collection is no different. Themed “the Legendary Silhouette,” it’s filled with the most feminine of accessories that would make any woman drool. And while drooling isn’t lady-like, it’s understandable because creative director Gherardo Felloni has made structured pieces that rekindle Monsieur Vivier’s connection with couture.
“I wanted the strength and sensuousness of the allure to exclusively emanate from the accessories,” says Felloni in notes. “Monsieur Vivier changed the allure of women. His creations were neither unassuming nor decorative: they were designed purely for attitude.” With this collection, it was important for him to create pieces that stand out over fashion, over what the woman is wearing celebrating Parisian sensibility through beaded shoes or embroidered gloves. “These sculpturesque designs go beyond their purely ornamental role and define each look,” continues Felloni.
Bringing back the Choc heel first seen in 1959, Felloni calls it the “nose on a face,” which he says provides character. Vivier knew this all too well. A student of sculpture at the École des Beaux-Arts of Paris, he was known for saying that when creating a shoe, he approached that creation the way a fashion designer does in creating a new line. The Maision runs with this same spirit of expression that Vivier had, highlighting his innovative spirit in shoe-making.
“Let us not forget that Monsieur Vivier was known as the Fabergé of footwear. He was the first to bring the techniques and materials of Haute Couture to the world of accessories. As early as the 1950s, the designer customarily built a look from the shoe up, using an accessory to transform a woman’s allure,” says the Maison in notes.
Shoes are bejeweled, silver sparkles on shoes and clutches, combat boots are also bejeweled on the calf, stiletto heels and ballet flats are adorned with pussy bows. There’s a strong black and white color palette in the collection, leopard print makes its way onto shoes and bags, olive tones peek into the palette, and blush pink and purple are also statement colors.
“This collection is like a tribute to the exquisitely Parisian elegance and carefree spirit distinctive of the Vivier woman,” says the Maison. There’s something in this collection for every type of woman, to the really girly down to the combat wearing boot woman that just doesn’t give a care.