Twenty-five looks make up Julien Fournié’s spring-summer 2023 Haute Couture Collection. The French designer unveiled the new looks from Paris’ 8th arrondissement in a full room of onlookers that were engaged with the pieces. Emotion gripping their faces, awes and sighs erupted when the bride emerged, and hands clapped joyously at what he had created. For Fournié, the collection is for women and meant to free them. “Women have always, against all odds, sought to free themselves from the shackles imposed by societies,” says Fournié in notes.
The collection was also born out of Fournié’s annoyance with the excess he saw in the world, and how commercialism overshadowed men and women being able to find joy in themselves and with their peers. Wanting to do something about these things, he proposed a vision. Meeting key women, he calls fairies, Fournié began to bring the vision together. A woman named Emmanuelle connected him to top weavers and knitters, who use natural fiber from Lyons. Aya helped in the area of embroidery from India, and Marie-Automne assisted in finding the best location in Paris to present his vision.
After some time of sketching, draping, cutting, and embellishing Fournié had a new collection, themed: “First Sunshine.” The house describes it as, “a resolutely summery and festive collection, with new cuts in Julien’s repertoire, a tribute to women freed from constraints, and designed to magnify their nature and simply celebrate the joy of partying in the open air in summertime.”
The opening look, a double-breasted tuxedo with taupe hues and sunrays of home, A-line knee length skirts contrast to the longer flowing skirt portion of dresses. There’s a 1920s element in the collection in the style and shape of dresses, and an 18th century lighter construction of pieces. Fitting for summer Fournié’s use of textiles are light and airy ones, some that give off a transparent tone. “The bride unfolds her embroidered silhouette in triple silk organza. Without veil, the spouse preserves her feminine magic with fine craftsmanship and needlework,” states the House.
Fournié shares some practical life applications through the collection: joy is met with effort; a dream only comes true when people of different skills partner and trust to create the dream. And elegantly designed and crafted collection of hard work, partnership, and effort describe Fournié’s collection.